NATIVITY SCENE AT ST. PETER’S SQUARE

It was around 6:30 in the evening of January 6, 2009. I was at St. Peter’s Square to see and admire first-hand the “presepio” or “presepe”. “Presepio” is literally “crib” in Italian. Its French equivalent is more familiar to us - “crèche”. It is translated as nativity scene or Christmas crib. It is the main focus of Christmas decorations in Italy.

St. Francis of Assisi is credited with creating the first “presepe” in history. In December 1223, according to the legend, he set up a Nativity scene in a straw-filled manger surrounded by live animals, in a natural cave near the small town of Greccio (Central Italy). That year the Christmas Eve Mass was celebrated there and word quickly spread that this “presepe” had miraculous powers. Although this was not the first “presepe” ever built, the prestige of St Francis’ name greatly helped to make this re-enactment of Christ’s birth very popular. (cf. Italian Cultural Institute in Washington)

In 2010 the “presepe” was given a Pinoy touch. According to Giuseppe Facchini, Bureau of Studies and Projects of the Vatican: “This year we want to join a cave structure with the stable. We have a wooden deck attached to the structure of the grotto.  Since the Philippines has given us figures which are very different from what we have, we decided to create a corner that is different from the others…. It displays a family of Filipino fishermen with a real canoe and baskets of fruit and fish.” (Rome Reports)

It rarely snows in Rome. It never did in the two years I was there. But still for someone who comes from the tropics, it can feel very cold in winter. When I went to St. Peter’s Square to see the “presepe”, I had to put on a bonnet, gloves, jacket and scarf.

It was already two weeks after Christmas. I was expecting few people to be there. But I was pleasantly surprised to see that there was still a good size crowd milling about. I made my way to the “presepe”. I took my time to take in the scene. The figures were life-size and they wore real clothes prepared by Franciscan nuns. The scene somehow managed to bring me to that very first Christmas night.

When my eyes were satisfied, I took out my camera to take pictures. But I found out that I couldn’t take good pictures because there were many heads in front of me. I had to wait for my turn to reach the metal railing that fenced in the nativity scene. Once there I took pictures from different angles and at different focal lengths. And as a finale, I asked an English-speaking tourist to take a picture of me with the nativity scene as the background.

Not many can experience what I just experienced. Yet that thought did nothing to lift my spirit. I missed the Christmas of my beloved Pinas. I missed the Simbang Gabi. I missed the puto bungbong, bibingka and tsa. I missed the Noche Buena. I missed the caroling. I missed visiting relatives and friends on Christmas day. I missed how we Filipinos can combine successfully what is sacred and what is “profane”, what is family and what is community in order to produce a Christmas that is a both a holy day and a holiday.

But now I am back. I returned four years ago. And I am glad to celebrate Christmas here.

A HAPPY Christmas to you all and a MERRY New Year.